Resources

Dryer Won't Start

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial

    One of the most common reasons for a dryer that refuses to start is a broken door switch. The video below shows how to replace it. If your issue isn't caused by this switch, continue below for more troubleshooting tips.


    Troubleshooting

    Is the power cord plugged into a grounded outlet?

    Plug the cord into an outlet.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Don't use one. Instead, plug the unit directly into a grounded outlet.

    Has a circuit breaker tripped or has a fuse blown?

    Check to see if either of those issues came up. If a circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it. Call an electrician if you need assistance.

    Is the dryer door closed?

    The dryer has a door switch that prevents the machine from operating with the door open. Make sure the door is closed completely.

    Is the lint panel/drawer open?

    Confirm that the lint screen is inserted and closed.


    Door Switch

    Important: Make sure you've unplugged your dryer before starting any electrical tests.

    Your dryer is equipped with a door switch, which prevents the machine from operating with the door open. If the door is closed but the machine still doesn't work, you may have a faulty door switch.

    The door switch looks like a little button that protrudes from the door opening. Test it by pushing it. You should hear a click. If it clicks, it could still be broken. You'll need to test it with a multimeter. To do this, you might have to remove the front panel so you can access the part.


    Start Button

    If it's not the door switch, next check the Start button. This can be the timer knob that you push in, or a separate button on the dryer control panel. Pressing the button sends power to the motor, which gets the machine going.

    In order to test the Start switch, you will need to remove the control panel of the dryer. And then use your multimeter to see if it's working properly. If not, you'll have to replace it.


    Thermal Fuse

    The next part to inspect is the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a safety device that prevents your dryer from getting too hot. If the dryer gets too hot, the fuse will blow, and no more power will go to the machine.

    You'll need to remove the back panel to get to this fuse. Take a look at it, and if it's blown, replace it. While this should get your dryer going again, you'll still want to find out why the dryer got so hot in the first place. Two common causes are poor ventilation or a broken circulation fan.


Dryer Doesn't Dry or Takes Too Long

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the lint screen/filter clogged?

    Remove the lint screen and clean it. Reinsert. Be sure to clean the lint filter after every use.

    Is anything blocking the ventilation system?

    Check the vents and ducting to make sure nothing is obstructing the exhaust.

    Are the clothes too wet after washing?

    The washing might simply be dialed in to the wrong setting. Make sure the washer is set appropriately for the load size. For example, if you use the normal wash speed for an oversize load, the washer may not spin fast enough to remove water, which will increase the necessary drying time.

    Is the dryer too full?

    Dry only one load of clothes at a time.

    Is the dryer not full enough?

    If there aren't enough clothes in the dryer and the dryer isn't level, the clothes could be resting in the back of the machine. If you're drying just one article of clothing, add a few more items to ensure proper tumbling.


    Thermal Fuse

    The thermal fuse prevents the dryer from getting too hot by interrupting the power supply. But once it's blown, the dryer won't operate without a replacement. Check the fuse, and if it's blown, remove it and install a new one.


    Heating Element

    The heating element is a wire coil in a metal chamber, and is what generates the heat for the dryer. If the heating element is faulty, there won't be any heat.

    To access the part, you'll need to remove the rear panel. Use your multimeter to test for continuity. If it's no good, replace it.


    Cycling Thermostat and High Limit Thermostat

    The cycling thermostat's role is control the temperature inside the dryer. It does this by cycling the heating element on and off. Over time, the part can become faulty and then unable to maintain proper heat in the dryer drum.

    The cycling thermostat is typically located on the blower housing or another part in the internal ducting. Test the part for continuity with a multimeter, and if it's not working, replace the part.

    The high limit thermostat is similar to the thermal fuse in that it prevents the dryer from getting too hot. The high limit thermostat is tripped when the exhaust vent is blocked or restricted. This part isn't meant to cycle repeatedly like the cycling thermostat, so it will eventually fail. Use your multimeter to test the part, and replace it if necessary.


    Temperature Sensor

    Instead of a cycling thermostat, some dryers have a temperature sensor to maintain the correct heat inside the dryer. This part will adjust electrical resistance to the machine, depending on the temperature.

    To check this, you'll need to remove the part and use a multimeter to to test.


    Dryer Timer

    The dryer timer advances either incrementally or sporadically, depending on the cycle you have running. On a timed cycle, it'll advance bit by bit. But on an automatic cycle, it's normal for the timer to move sporadically.

    It's possible for a dryer timer to wear out. The timer connects to the dryer motor and heat circuit, so if the timer wears out, the dryer may not produce enough heat to dry your load. Test your timer for continuity with a multimeter, and replace it if you find it's defective.


    Burner System

    The igniter, radiant sensor, gas control valve, and coils work together to make up the burner system.

    The igniter heats up and ignites the gas, which produces the heat needed to dry your load of clothes. The igniter is found inside the dryer, near the gas valve burner tube. It can be shaped like a coil, or flat, depending on your dryer make and model. They're fragile, so be very careful when testing it.

    The radiant sensor measures heat from the igniter or burner, and controls the gas valve. It'll have the valve release more gas when more heat is needed, and if it's defective, your dryer won't get hot enough to dry your clothes.

    Use your multimter on each of these three parts to check for continuity. If any are defective, replace the part.


Top Load Washer Not Filling

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial

    Learn how to fix your washer when it's not filling with water with this instructional video.


    Troubleshooting

    Is the power cord plugged into a grounded outlet?

    Plug the cord into one.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Do not use one. Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Has a circuit breaker tripped or a fuse blown?

    Check to see if either of those issues came up. If a circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it. Call an electrician if you need assistance.

    Is the water faucet on?

    Check other faucets in the house to test. Turn on the water, both hot and cold. The washer will not work properly with only one incoming source of water. The water valve in the machine needs to have the pressue from both attached hoses to finish the cycle. If a cold water wash is selected, the washer is designed to add hot water to keep the water temperature optimal for cleaning. Connecting only to cold water can negatively affect the washer's effectiveness.

    Are any water hoses kinked?

    Straighten them out.

    Are the water inlet valve screens clogged?

    First, turn off the water. Then remove the hoses and clean the water inlet valve screens. Then put the hoses back and try again.

    Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle?

    Some wash cycles use a soaking period where the machine allows the clothing to soak. The pause can last up to three minutes, so simply allow the machine to do its job.

    Is the timer set to OFF?

    Sometimes the washer won't start if the dial is too close to the OFF position. Simply push the knob in and turn slightly. Then pull the knob out to start the cycle.

    Is the timer knob pushed in?

    Pull it out. Sometimes, when opening the lid, the lid can inadvertently push the knob in.

    Is the lid open?

    Some newer washers will not fill when the lid is open. Close the lid, then start the cycle.


    Inlet Hoses and Screens

    Washers are connected to your water supply by hoses. These hoses are about 5 feet long and will have a mesh screen inserted into the end of the hose that attaches to your faucet. The screen prevents sediment from entering the water inlet valve of your washing machine.

    • Check that the faucets are turned on and that the inlet hoses are not kinked.
    • Next, turn off the faucets and remove the fill hoses from the washer.
    • Inspect the inlet valve screens, and clean or replace.
    • Now, remove the hose from the faucet and clean or replace the screens.
    • If your washer still does take water, it's time to look at the water inlet at the back of your machine.

    Water Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.

Repair Help

Expert help and how-to articles for troubleshooting and fixing your washer and dryer.

Top Load Washer is Too Noisy

  • Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting

    Is the washer's load unbalanced?

    Open the lid and redistribute the load.

    Is the washer level?

    Uneven leveling can cause vibration and excess noise.

    Is the washer making a knocking sound?

    A newly installed washer may make a knocking sound if it has been in storage, and the belt may have settled. Run the washer for 4-5 cycles to loosen the belt. If the belt is still noisy, replace it.

    Is the washer making a grinding sound?

    The tub bearing may be worn or failing.


    Drive Belts

    The drive belt connects the washer motor to the transmission.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this repair.

    Inspect the drive belt. If the belt is worn or cracked, replace it.

Dryer is Too Noisy

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Are there any foreign objects in the dryer, such as coins or toys?

    When loading your dryer, be careful not to include such items.

    Is the dryer level? Is anything leaning on the machine?

    If the dryer isn't level, the tumbling action can produce vibrations, making for a noisy dryer. Objects leaning on the dryer can also cause this. Make sure the dryer is level and nothing is resting on it.

    Have you checked for loose screws?

    Loose screws can cause a squeaking sounds. Tighten them.

    Are these noises part of normal operation?

    Your dryer won't be completely silent. There will be the humming sound of the exhaust system, the timer ticking down, the drum rotating, and the clicking of the heating element cycling on and off. These are normal. Zipper and buttons on your clothes can also be noisemakers during the dry cycle.


    Dryer Belt

    Important: Unplug the dryer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The dryer's drum is rotating by a belt, and over time, the belt can become hard and brittle, and pieces of it can start to come apart. When this happens, the rotation can make the belt thump against the dryer cabinet.

    You can inspect the belt by removing the front and/or top panel of your dryer. If the belt looks worn or broken, replacing it should fix the noise problem.


    Idler Pulley

    The idler pulley is the part that keeps the tension on the drive belt. It keeps the belt from sliding the motor and drum. It's usually the part that gets adjusted when the belt needs adjusting or replacement.

    This pulley rotates very fast during operation, so it can get worn down before other parts. As it wears, friction increases, and this can cause a squeaking sound.

    The idler pulley is found near the drive motor, at the bottom of the dryer. You'll need to remove the front panel and/or the front access panel to access it. Remove the belt and turn the idler pulley. It should rotate freely. If it doesn't, or if there are signs of damage, replace the part.


    Drum Rollers

    Another commonly worn part is the drum roller. This part supports the drum and over will wear out. When one or more rollers are worn, the drum won't turn as freely, and the increased friction can make a squeaking or squealing sound.

    To inspect the rollers, the drum will have to be removed. If any of the rollers are worn, it's best to replace the whole set at once.


    Blower Wheel

    The blower wheel is a plastic part that draws air from the heating chamber to the drum and exhaust. It's attached to the motor, and normal wear will loosen it. If it's not securely attached, noise is generated by the wobbling part as it turns during operation.


Dryer Won't Turn

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the dryer overloaded?

    Loading the dryer with too heavy a load can keep the dryer from tumbling. The excess weight can make the dryer belt slip. Try removing some clothes and trying again.


    Dryer Belt

    Important: Unplug the dryer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    All dryers have a belt that rotates the drum. The dryer belt wraps around the drum, tension pulley, and motor. Over time, the belt can become worn down or break. When that happens, the motor is unable to send power to the drum, so even if the dryer is producing heat and the motor is turning, nothing is rotating the drum.

    Inspect the belt for wear and damage. It should be soft and flexible, with good grip. If it's hard and slippery, it's too worn down and isn't maintaining the necessary friction to turn the drum. If it's worn or broken, replacing the belt should solve the problem.


    Idler Pulley

    The dryer belt is kept tight by wrapping it over the idler pulley. This pulley maintains the tension needed for the belt to grip the drum and turn it. It rotates at a high speed and goes through normal wear. Over time, it can get too worn down, and either break or need adjusting. Usually, when this part breaks, it'll make a squealing sound during operation. But the other symptom of a bad idler pulley is the drum doesn't rotate or rotates very slowly.

    After inspecting the dryer belt, take time to check out the idler pulley. Remove the belt, and spin the pulley. It should spin freely on the shaft without any wobbling. If it doesn't, replace the part.


    Door Switch

    The door switch keeps the dryer from operating when the door is open. If the door is closed and the dryer still won't start, the switch might be faulty.

    The switch can be tested for continuity with a multimeter. If the switch is defective, you'll need to replace it.


Top Load Washer Leaks Water

  • Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting

    Check that the fill hoses are properly installed on the faucets and to the washer's mixing valve.

    Check that the fill hoses for damage and leaks

    Fill hoses should be replaced every five years.

    Check the drain hose for damage and leaks

    Check the drain hose to make sure it is not clogged with debris or damaged.

    Check the drain hose for clogs

    Check the drain hose to make sure it is not clogged with debris.

    Check that the drain receptacle is not clogged

    Verify that the drain plumbing is working and free of clogs or debris.

    Is the washer oversudsing or overloaded?

    Too much detergent or overloading can cause the washer to overflow and leak. Use recommended detergent amounts and proper load sizes.


    Water Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.

Top Load Washer Not Agitating

  • Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting

    Make sure the lid is closed

    You can also inspect the lid switch to make sure it is operating properly.

    Is the machine plugged in?

    Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Check if a circuit breaker has tripped or a fuse has blown?

    If a circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it. Call an electrician if you need assistance.

    Verify that the controls are properly set

    Set the controls and press the start switch

    The drive belt may be broken


    Water Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.

Top Load Washer Won't Drain

  • Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting

    Check the drain hose for kinks

    Check the drain hose for kinks or twisting that could prevent the flow of water

    Check the drain hose for clogs

    Check the drain hose to make sure it is not clogged with debris

    Check that the drain receptacle is not clogged

    Verify that the drain plumbing is working and free of clogs or debris


    Water Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.

Top Load Washer Won't Spin

  • Troubleshooting - Top Load Washer Won't Spin

    Troubleshooting

    Make sure the lid is closed

    Washers will not spin if the lid is open or ajar. A lid switch prevents the washer from spinning if the lid is open.

    Is the lid switch operating properly?

    Inspect the lid switch to make sure it is operating properly. You can check the switch with an ohmmeter to verify proper operation. The lid switch should have electrical continuity when the lid is closed. Always unplug the machine before making any repairs.

    The drive belt may be broken or loose

    Check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or damaged, or isn't tight, the washer won't spin.

    The motor coupler may be broken

    On washers with direct drive motors (no belt), check the motor coupler which links the direct drive motor to the transmission. If the coupler is broken or damaged, the washer won't spin.

    The motor may be broken.

    Inspect the motor for proper operation. If the motor will not run during the spin cycle, then it may need replacement.

    The tub seal and bearing may be worn or damaged.

    Usually the bearing will make noises and may leak water if it is failing. This is a major repair and involves the disassembly of the majority of the washer to replace the bearing and seal.

    The transmission may be worn or damaged.

    This is a major repair and involves the disassembly of the majority of the washer to replace the transmission.


    Lid Switch

    The lid switch senses when the lid is closed, and allows the washer to agitate or spin.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing any test.

    Remove the washer cabinet or top panel to allow access to the lid switch. Disconnect the wires to the lid switch, making sure to note where to reconnect them. Using a ohmmeter, verify that there is continuity across the lid switch when the lid is closed, and that the switch opens when the lid is open. If the switch does not perform this test properly, replace it.


    Drive Belt

    The drive belt connects the motor to the transmission.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing any test.

    Remove the washer front or side panel to allow access to the motor and belt. Inspect the belt for wear and proper tension to turn the transmission pulley. If the belt is damaged or worn, replace it.

Top Load Washer Won't Start

  • Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting

    Make sure the lid is closed

    You can also inspect the lid switch to make sure it is operating properly

    Is the machine plugged in?

    Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Check if a circuit breaker has tripped or a fuse has blown?

    If a circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it. Call an electrician if you need assistance.

    Verify that the controls are properly set

    Set the controls and press the start switch


    Water Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.

Dryer is Too Hot

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the dryer vent clogged?

    Lint buildup and other obsctructions could keep the dryer from venting properly. Heat can buildup, causing the top of the dryer to get very hot. Clear the vents of any and all debris.

    Did you set the correct setting for your load?

    Make sure you're using the correct heat setting for your fabrics of the load you're drying.

    Is there anything stacked in front of the dryer?

    Many dryers have an air intake at the front of the machine. Make sure not to block his area, or the dryer won't be able to draw in fresh air to operate properly.

    Is the dryer level?

    If the dryer is not level, clothes can collect toward one part of the dryer, making it hard for the moisture sensors to measure your clothes' dryness. Make sure your dryer is level for best results.


    Exhaust Vent

    The ventilation system of your dryer must be clean and clear for the dryer to work properly. If airflow is restricted, hot air will build up inside your dryer, causing excessive heat.

    The excessive heat will often trip the high limit thermostat, which is a safety device that prevents your dryer from getting too hot. This will lead to longer drying times. Make sure to inspect and clean the vents regularly.


    Heating Element

    The heating element is a wire coil in a metal chamber, and is what generates the heat for the dryer. If the heating element is faulty, there won't be any heat.

    To access the part, you'll need to remove the rear panel. Use your multimeter to test for continuity. If it's no good, replace it.


    High Limit Thermostat

    Important: Remove the dryer's power source before beginning any tests or repairs. Unplug your dryer.

    For safety, the high limit thermostat is tripped when the dryer gets too hot. If the dryer doesn't shut off despite excessive heat, there might be problem with your high limit thermostat. This part isn't meant to cycle on and off like the cycling thermostat, so over time and repeated activations could wear it down. And when it's no longer working as expected, it can allow your dryer's temperature to rise to dangerous levels.

    After verifying there's no issue with the ventilation, you'll want to test this part. You'll need to remove the top and front panels to access this part. Use a multimeter to test for continuity. If you find this to be the cause, simply replace the part.


    Cycling Thermostat

    The cycling thermostat works by turning the dryer's heating element or gas burner on and off, depending on the temperature. This part keeps the dryer running at the correct temperature. If defective, the dryer may be allowed to get too hot, which is unsafe and can damage your clothes.

    If it's not the vents or high limit thermostat, you can test this part next. Like the high limit thermostat, you can access it by remove the front and side panel of the machine. Then use a multimeter to test.


    Heating Element

    If the heating element becomes faulty, it could produce heat continuously, which leads to excessive heating. If you've tested the cycling and high limit thermostat and those are fine, you'll want to inspect this part.

    The heating element comes in many forms, depending on the manufacturer. Generally, they are made with a wire coil. The way this works is, the coil receives an electrical current, but resists it. The resistance causes the coil to heat, and this heat is used to dry your clothes.

    To inspect this part, you'll have to disassemble the dryer so you can access it. Remember to disconnect your dryer from power before doing anything else.

    First, check that no coils are touching. Then, you can use your multimeter to test for resistance. With the multimeter set to Rx1 Resistance, touch each end of the element with both probes. If the meter reads infinite resistance, the part's no longer working properly and needs replacement.


Press & Media

The following are media related items featuring PWS Laundry in print, audio, and video mediums from various sources in the Laundromat industry and general media.