Resources

Dryer Won't Start

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial

    One of the most common reasons for a dryer that refuses to start is a broken door switch. The video below shows how to replace it. If your issue isn't caused by this switch, continue below for more troubleshooting tips.


    Troubleshooting

    Is the power cord plugged into a grounded outlet?

    Plug the cord into an outlet.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Don't use one. Instead, plug the unit directly into a grounded outlet.

    Has a circuit breaker tripped or has a fuse blown?

    Check to see if either of those issues came up. If a circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it. Call an electrician if you need assistance.

    Is the dryer door closed?

    The dryer has a door switch that prevents the machine from operating with the door open. Make sure the door is closed completely.

    Is the lint panel/drawer open?

    Confirm that the lint screen is inserted and closed.


    Door Switch

    Important: Make sure you've unplugged your dryer before starting any electrical tests.

    Your dryer is equipped with a door switch, which prevents the machine from operating with the door open. If the door is closed but the machine still doesn't work, you may have a faulty door switch.

    The door switch looks like a little button that protrudes from the door opening. Test it by pushing it. You should hear a click. If it clicks, it could still be broken. You'll need to test it with a multimeter. To do this, you might have to remove the front panel so you can access the part.


    Start Button

    If it's not the door switch, next check the Start button. This can be the timer knob that you push in, or a separate button on the dryer control panel. Pressing the button sends power to the motor, which gets the machine going.

    In order to test the Start switch, you will need to remove the control panel of the dryer. And then use your multimeter to see if it's working properly. If not, you'll have to replace it.


    Thermal Fuse

    The next part to inspect is the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a safety device that prevents your dryer from getting too hot. If the dryer gets too hot, the fuse will blow, and no more power will go to the machine.

    You'll need to remove the back panel to get to this fuse. Take a look at it, and if it's blown, replace it. While this should get your dryer going again, you'll still want to find out why the dryer got so hot in the first place. Two common causes are poor ventilation or a broken circulation fan.


Front Load Washer Won't Start

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the power cord plugged in all the way?

    Make sure there is power going into the machine. Plug the cord in the outlet directly, without using an extension cord.

    Has the house circuit breaker tripped?

    Check the circuit breaker or house fuse. If the circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it.

    Is the loading door shut completely?

    The washer won't start if the door isn't closed tightly. Make sure the door isn't open.


    Door Switch

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Just like top loaders, front load washers have a safety device in the form of a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and signals that the door is closed and locked. The machine won't run without this switch. If the door is closed, but the machine still won't start, the door switch might be faulty.

    To test the switch, you'll need a multimeter to test it for continuity. In order to access the switch, unplug the machine and then remove the front panel. The switch is located in the door frame or door lock assembly.


    Door Lock

    Similar to the door switch, the door lock signals to the washer that it's okay to start. The door lock must be engaged for the machine won't run. If the door switch tests okay, the next part to inspect is the door lock motor.

    After unplugging the machine and removing the front panel, test the door lock motor for continuity with a multimeter.


    Rotary Knobs

    On machines with a mechanical timer knob, the knob can get worn and no longer line up properly. You can try advancing the timer a little, and pulling it out again to try starting it.


    Overheating

    If the machine has been running several loads continuously, it can overheat. When it does, it'll automatically stop working to protect itself from harm. Allow the motor to cool down, and then try again.


    Control Board

    Newer machines are electronically controlled and have a control board. Diagnosing the control board is complicated, and repair/replacement is not recommended for a non-professional. It's also unlikely for a control board to go bad, so be sure to check all other possible causes before looking into this.


Top Load Washer Won't Start

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Make sure the lid is closed

    You can also inspect the lid switch to make sure it is operating properly

    Is the machine plugged in?

    Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Check if a circuit breaker has tripped or a fuse has blown?

    If a circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it. Call an electrician if you need assistance.

    Verify that the controls are properly set

    Set the controls and press the start switch


    Water Inlet Valve

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.


    Lid Switch

    The lid switch is a safety device that prevents the washer from operating wtih the lid open. When the lid is closed, the switch is pushed in, which signals the washer that lid is down. If the lid is closed and the washer won't start, it's possible the lid switch is faulty.

    To test the lid switch, you'll need a multimeter and use it to check for continuity.


    Rotary Knobs

    Mechanical timer knobs can get worn down and misaligned. Try advancing the timer slightly and pulling the knob to try to start it again. If it still doesn't start, inspect the knob for wear and damage.


    Overheating

    When the washer's been running for a long time, for example, if you had several loads to clean, it's possible for the washer to overheat. To protect itself from damage, it may stop operating to allow the motor to cool down. Let the machine cool, and then try again.


    Control Baord

    New washers are electronically controlled and have a control board. Diagnosing the control board is a complicated job, and not recommended for non-professionals. If you suspect the board to be the problem, it's best to contact a professional service technician.


Dryer Takes Too Long to Dry

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the lint screen/filter clogged?

    Remove the lint screen and clean it. Reinsert. Be sure to clean the lint filter after every use.

    Is anything blocking the ventilation system?

    Check the vents and ducting to make sure nothing is obstructing the exhaust.

    Are the clothes too wet after washing?

    The washing might simply be dialed in to the wrong setting. Make sure the washer is set appropriately for the load size. For example, if you use the normal wash speed for an oversize load, the washer may not spin fast enough to remove water, which will increase the necessary drying time.

    Is the dryer too full?

    Dry only one load of clothes at a time.

    Is the dryer not full enough?

    If there aren't enough clothes in the dryer and the dryer isn't level, the clothes could be resting in the back of the machine. If you're drying just one article of clothing, add a few more items to ensure proper tumbling.


    Thermal Fuse

    The thermal fuse prevents the dryer from getting too hot by interrupting the power supply. But once it's blown, the dryer won't operate without a replacement. Check the fuse, and if it's blown, remove it and install a new one.


    Heating Element

    The heating element is a wire coil in a metal chamber, and is what generates the heat for the dryer. If the heating element is faulty, there won't be any heat.

    To access the part, you'll need to remove the rear panel. Use your multimeter to test for continuity. If it's no good, replace it.


    Cycling Thermostat and High Limit Thermostat

    The cycling thermostat's role is control the temperature inside the dryer. It does this by cycling the heating element on and off. Over time, the part can become faulty and then unable to maintain proper heat in the dryer drum.

    The cycling thermostat is typically located on the blower housing or another part in the internal ducting. Test the part for continuity with a multimeter, and if it's not working, replace the part.

    The high limit thermostat is similar to the thermal fuse in that it prevents the dryer from getting too hot. The high limit thermostat is tripped when the exhaust vent is blocked or restricted. This part isn't meant to cycle repeatedly like the cycling thermostat, so it will eventually fail. Use your multimeter to test the part, and replace it if necessary.


    Temperature Sensor

    Instead of a cycling thermostat, some dryers have a temperature sensor to maintain the correct heat inside the dryer. This part will adjust electrical resistance to the machine, depending on the temperature.

    To check this, you'll need to remove the part and use a multimeter to to test.


    Dryer Timer

    The dryer timer advances either incrementally or sporadically, depending on the cycle you have running. On a timed cycle, it'll advance bit by bit. But on an automatic cycle, it's normal for the timer to move sporadically.

    It's possible for a dryer timer to wear out. The timer connects to the dryer motor and heat circuit, so if the timer wears out, the dryer may not produce enough heat to dry your load. Test your timer for continuity with a multimeter, and replace it if you find it's defective.


    Burner System

    The igniter, radiant sensor, gas control valve, and coils work together to make up the burner system.

    The igniter heats up and ignites the gas, which produces the heat needed to dry your load of clothes. The igniter is found inside the dryer, near the gas valve burner tube. It can be shaped like a coil, or flat, depending on your dryer make and model. They're fragile, so be very careful when testing it.

    The radiant sensor measures heat from the igniter or burner, and controls the gas valve. It'll have the valve release more gas when more heat is needed, and if it's defective, your dryer won't get hot enough to dry your clothes.

    Use your multimter on each of these three parts to check for continuity. If any are defective, replace the part.


Top Load Washer Not Filling

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial

    Learn how to fix your washer when it's not filling with water with this instructional video.


    Troubleshooting

    Is the power cord plugged into a grounded outlet?

    Plug the cord into one.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Do not use one. Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Has a circuit breaker tripped or a fuse blown?

    Check to see if either of those issues came up. If a circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it. Call an electrician if you need assistance.

    Is the water faucet on?

    Check other faucets in the house to test. Turn on the water, both hot and cold. The washer will not work properly with only one incoming source of water. The water valve in the machine needs to have the pressue from both attached hoses to finish the cycle. If a cold water wash is selected, the washer is designed to add hot water to keep the water temperature optimal for cleaning. Connecting only to cold water can negatively affect the washer's effectiveness.

    Are any water hoses kinked?

    Straighten them out.

    Are the water inlet valve screens clogged?

    First, turn off the water. Then remove the hoses and clean the water inlet valve screens. Then put the hoses back and try again.

    Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle?

    Some wash cycles use a soaking period where the machine allows the clothing to soak. The pause can last up to three minutes, so simply allow the machine to do its job.

    Is the timer set to OFF?

    Sometimes the washer won't start if the dial is too close to the OFF position. Simply push the knob in and turn slightly. Then pull the knob out to start the cycle.

    Is the timer knob pushed in?

    Pull it out. Sometimes, when opening the lid, the lid can inadvertently push the knob in.

    Is the lid open?

    Some newer washers will not fill when the lid is open. Close the lid, then start the cycle.


    Inlet Hoses and Screens

    Washers are connected to your water supply by hoses. These hoses are about 5 feet long and will have a mesh screen inserted into the end of the hose that attaches to your faucet. The screen prevents sediment from entering the water inlet valve of your washing machine.

    • Check that the faucets are turned on and that the inlet hoses are not kinked.
    • Next, turn off the faucets and remove the fill hoses from the washer.
    • Inspect the inlet valve screens, and clean or replace.
    • Now, remove the hose from the faucet and clean or replace the screens.
    • If your washer still does take water, it's time to look at the water inlet at the back of your machine.

    Water Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.

Washer Won't Start

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the power cord plugged in all the way?

    Make sure there is power going into the machine. Plug the cord in the outlet directly, without using an extension cord.

    Has the house circuit breaker tripped?

    Check the circuit breaker or house fuse. If the circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it.

    Is the loading door (front loaders) shut completely, or the lid (top loaders) closed?

    The washer won't start if the door isn't closed tightly or the lid isn't down.


    Lid Switch

    The lid switch is a safety device that prevents the washer from operating wtih the lid open. When the lid is closed, the switch is pushed in, which signals the washer that lid is down. If the lid is closed and the washer won't start, it's possible the lid switch is faulty.

    To test the lid switch, you'll need a multimeter and use it to check for continuity.


    Door Switch

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Just like top loaders, front load washers have a safety device in the form of a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and signals that the door is closed and locked. The machine won't run without this switch. If the door is closed, but the machine still won't start, the door switch might be faulty.

    To test the switch, you'll need a multimeter to test it for continuity. In order to access the switch, unplug the machine and then remove the front panel. The switch is located in the door frame or door lock assembly.


    Door Lock

    Similar to the door switch, the door lock signals to the washer that it's okay to start. The door lock must be engaged for the machine won't run. If the door switch tests okay, the next part to inspect is the door lock motor.

    After unplugging the machine and removing the front panel, test the door lock motor for continuity with a multimeter.


    Rotary Knobs

    On machines with a mechanical timer knob, the knob can get worn and no longer line up properly. You can try advancing the timer a little, and pulling it out again to try starting it.


    Overheating

    If the machine has been running several loads continuously, it can overheat. When it does, it'll automatically stop working to protect itself from harm. Allow the motor to cool down, and then try again.


    Control Board

    Newer machines are electronically controlled and have a control board. Diagnosing the control board is complicated, and repair/replacement is not recommended for a non-professional. It's also unlikely for a control board to go bad, so be sure to check all other possible causes before looking into this.


Repair Help

Expert help and how-to articles for troubleshooting and fixing your washer and dryer.

Top Load Washer is Too Noisy

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the washer's load unbalanced?

    Open the lid and redistribute the load.

    Is the washer level?

    Uneven leveling can cause vibration and excess noise.

    Is the washer making a knocking sound?

    A newly installed washer may make a knocking sound if it has been in storage, and the belt may have settled. Run the washer for 4-5 cycles to loosen the belt. If the belt is still noisy, replace it.

    Is the washer making a grinding sound?

    The tub bearing may be worn or failing.


    Tub Bearing

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The tub bearing is the part that allows the washing machine tub to spin freely. These are sealed to prevent water from entering, but over time and repeated use, they can wear out, and then water, soap, and dirt start to seep in. When this happens, the bearings will fail.

    When the cause is the tub bearing, the machine will make a loud, rumbling noise.


    Drain Pump and Motor

    TThe drain pump pushes water out of the machine for draining. Under normal circumstances, the pump should run sliently. If it's not, it's possible a foreign object such as a wire or small toy is stuck inside. After removing the power, carefully remove the front panel to access the pump. Inspect it for foreign objects and check the impeller for damage. If necessary, replace the pump.

    Some machines have the pump and motor in a single unit. On these, the entire assembly will need to be replaced.


    Shock Absorbers

    Shock absorbers are attached to the outer tub and machine base, and come into play during spinning. In the spin cycle, these parts dampen the tub movement, preventing it from bottoming out and crashing into the cabinet. If the shock absorbers are worn or damaged, they won't do their job, and as the tub hits the cabinet, you'll hear a loud banging during the spin.

    Check the shock absorbers for damage by looking for leaking, broken attachments, and weakness. Replace both, if you determine that one or both are faulty.


Washer Not Filling

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the power cord plugged into a grounded outlet?

    Plug the cord into one.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Do not use one. Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Has a circuit breaker tripped or a fuse blown?

    Check to see if either of those issues came up. If a circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it. Call an electrician if you need assistance.

    Is the water faucet on?

    Check other faucets in the house to test. Turn on the water, both hot and cold. The washer will not work properly with only one incoming source of water. The water valve in the machine needs to have the pressue from both attached hoses to finish the cycle. If a cold water wash is selected, the washer is designed to add hot water to keep the water temperature optimal for cleaning. Connecting only to cold water can negatively affect the washer's effectiveness.

    Are any water hoses kinked?

    Straighten them out.

    Are the water inlet valve screens clogged?

    First, turn off the water. Then remove the hoses and clean the water inlet valve screens. Then put the hoses back and try again.

    Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle?

    Some wash cycles use a soaking period where the machine allows the clothing to soak. The pause can last up to three minutes, so simply allow the machine to do its job.

    Is the timer set to OFF?

    Sometimes the washer won't start if the dial is too close to the OFF position. Simply push the knob in and turn slightly. Then pull the knob out to start the cycle.

    Is the timer knob pushed in?

    Pull it out. Sometimes, when opening the lid, the lid can inadvertently push the knob in.

    Is the lid open?

    Some newer washers will not fill when the lid is open. Close the lid, then start the cycle.


    Inlet Hoses and Screens

    Washers are connected to your water supply by hoses. These hoses are about 5 feet long and will have a mesh screen inserted into the end of the hose that attaches to your faucet. The screen prevents sediment from entering the water inlet valve of your washing machine.

    • Check that the faucets are turned on and that the inlet hoses are not kinked.
    • Next, turn off the faucets and remove the fill hoses from the washer.
    • Inspect the inlet valve screens, and clean or replace.
    • Now, remove the hose from the faucet and clean or replace the screens.
    • If your washer still does take water, it's time to look at the water inlet at the back of your machine.

    Water Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.


Dryer is Too Noisy

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Are there any foreign objects in the dryer, such as coins or toys?

    When loading your dryer, be careful not to include such items.

    Is the dryer level? Is anything leaning on the machine?

    If the dryer isn't level, the tumbling action can produce vibrations, making for a noisy dryer. Objects leaning on the dryer can also cause this. Make sure the dryer is level and nothing is resting on it.

    Have you checked for loose screws?

    Loose screws can cause a squeaking sounds. Tighten them.

    Are these noises part of normal operation?

    Your dryer won't be completely silent. There will be the humming sound of the exhaust system, the timer ticking down, the drum rotating, and the clicking of the heating element cycling on and off. These are normal. Zipper and buttons on your clothes can also be noisemakers during the dry cycle.


    Dryer Belt

    Important: Unplug the dryer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The dryer's drum is rotating by a belt, and over time, the belt can become hard and brittle, and pieces of it can start to come apart. When this happens, the rotation can make the belt thump against the dryer cabinet.

    You can inspect the belt by removing the front and/or top panel of your dryer. If the belt looks worn or broken, replacing it should fix the noise problem.


    Idler Pulley

    The idler pulley is the part that keeps the tension on the drive belt. It keeps the belt from sliding the motor and drum. It's usually the part that gets adjusted when the belt needs adjusting or replacement.

    This pulley rotates very fast during operation, so it can get worn down before other parts. As it wears, friction increases, and this can cause a squeaking sound.

    The idler pulley is found near the drive motor, at the bottom of the dryer. You'll need to remove the front panel and/or the front access panel to access it. Remove the belt and turn the idler pulley. It should rotate freely. If it doesn't, or if there are signs of damage, replace the part.


    Drum Rollers

    Another commonly worn part is the drum roller. This part supports the drum and over will wear out. When one or more rollers are worn, the drum won't turn as freely, and the increased friction can make a squeaking or squealing sound.

    To inspect the rollers, the drum will have to be removed. If any of the rollers are worn, it's best to replace the whole set at once.


    Blower Wheel

    The blower wheel is a plastic part that draws air from the heating chamber to the drum and exhaust. It's attached to the motor, and normal wear will loosen it. If it's not securely attached, noise is generated by the wobbling part as it turns during operation.


Dryer Stops Turning Mid-Cycle

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the front of the dryer blocked by anything?

    Avoid placing anything in front of the dryer, as it draws in air from the bottom front. If the intake is blocked, the dryer can overheat, which will trigger the safety devices in the dryer, shutting it off.

    Is the dryer level?

    If the dryer isn't level and tipped toward the rear, your clothes can collect in the back, too far from the sensor rods. And if the sensor rods don't detect moisture, the dryer will turn off thinking the clothes are already dry. Adjusting the level of your dryer will solve this.

    Is the dryer on an automatic setting?

    When the dryer is on auto-mode, the timer may advance only sporadically. This is normal behavior.


    Moisture Sensor

    Important: Unplug the dryer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The moisture sensor controls the dryer when it's set to automatic. The wetness of the clothes is measured by the sensors, and when there's no more moisture, the dryer shuts off.

    If the sensor is defective, it may cause the dryer to cycle off sooner than it should. Another reason for the sensor to not work is when fabric softener chemicals coat it. When coated, it can't detect the moisture in the clothes, and then the dryer will stop.


Dryer Won't Stop

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the exhaust vent blocked?

    Good air flow is important for the dryer to work correctly. Make sure the vents are clear of debris such as lint, so that the exhaust can exit freely. Poor ventilation will increase the necessary drying time considerably.

    Is the dryer set to "no heat"?

    If using a no heat setting, drying will take longer to complete.


    Door Switch

    Important: Unplug the dryer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The door switch prevents the dryer from running with the door open, so if the dryer run with an open door, it's likely this is the cause.


    Cycling Thermostat

    The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to maintain the proper temperature inside, and it advances your dryer timer when the cycle is set to automatic. If the dryer won't stop, it's possible the cycling thermostat is defective and cycling off the heat too early. And then this causes the dryer to keep running as it senses the clothes aren't dry yet.


    Timer

    Besides counting down the dry time, the timer controls the dryer motor and heat circuit. So if the timer is defective, it might not have a good contact to the motor or heat to shut either one off. The timer should be tested for continuity with a multimeter, and replaced if found to be faulty.


Front Load Washer Door Won't Lock

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is something blocking the door from closing?

    Clear the way for the door to close.

    Is debris or lint clogging the door lock mechanism?

    Clean the lock.


    Door Lock and Switch Assembly

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The door lock could be defective or worn out, so it no longer keeps the washer door closed. Most lock assemblies are made of plastic, so if it's defective, you won't be able to repair it, and instead have to replace it.

    The door lock motor and switch assembly can also be defective, either mechanically or electrically. It's common for the lock and switch to fail. Test the part with a multimeter. There should be continuity, and if there isn't, replacement is required.


    Door Latch

    Like the door lock, the latch assembly is responsible for keeping the door closed. If it's not the lock, you can look at the latch. Either or both mechanical and electrical failure are possible. To test for electrical malfunction, use a multimeter and test for continuity. A properly working latch will have continuity. If it doesn't, the part must be replaced.


Front Load Washer is Too Noisy

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the washer level?

    If the washer is not level, there may be excessive vibration, or the drum may make contact with the cabinet, producing a loud, clanging sound. Level the washing machine by adjusting the feet.

    Are there foreign objects in the washer, such as coins or toys?

    Be careful to empty all pockets before loading clothes, and make sure no hard objects are included in the load.


    Tub Bearing and Seal

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The tub bearing is a part on both front load and top load washers. This bearing allows the wash basket to move freely during the agitation and spin cycles.

    On a front load washer, there are usually two bearings, both located in the rear of the outer tub. The bearings are sealed to keep water from entering, but over time and repeated use, the seal can wear down and water, soap, and dirt can seep in. When that happens, the bearings will eventually fail.

    When the tub bearing is the problem, your machine will make a loud rumbling noice during the spin cycle. If you hear that noise, you can inspect the machine by checkin the tub for excessive play. If you're able to move the tub up and down, and side to side, that can indicate a tub bearing issue.

    Further inspection and repair requires disassembly of the machine. You'll need to remove the outer tub and wash basket in order to diagnose. If replacing the tub bearing, the tub seal should be replaced as well.


    Drain Pump and Motor

    The drain pump pushes water out of the machine for draining. Under normal circumstances, the pump should run sliently. If it's not, it's possible a foreign object such as a wire or small toy is stuck inside. After removing the power, carefully remove the front panel to access the pump. Inspect it for foreign objects and check the impeller for damage. If necessary, replace the pump.

    Some machines have the pump and motor in a single unit. On these, the entire assembly will need to be replaced.


    Shock Absorbers

    Shock absorbers are attached to the outer tub and machine base, and come into play during spinning. In the spin cycle, these parts dampen the tub movement, preventing it from bottoming out and crashing into the cabinet. If the shock absorbers are worn or damaged, they won't do their job, and as the tub hits the cabinet, you'll hear a loud banging during the spin.

    Check the shock absorbers for damage by looking for leaking, broken attachments, and weakness. Replace both, if you determine that one or both are faulty.


Front Load Washer Leaks Water

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Are you using too much detergent?

    Using too much detergent can cause over-sudsing, which can cause splashing and overflow, leaving water and soap on the floor and looking like a leak. Be sure to use the proper amount of soap, according to the detergent packaging.

    Is the machine overloaded?

    Overloading the machine can also cause splashing and overflow, leaving wet floor that looks like a leak. Make sure you don't put too much clothes in the machine.


    Hoses

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The hoses are the most common points of failure for a leaking machine. Washing machines employ multiple hoses, though the likely problems would come from the fill hoses or the drain hose.

    The fill hoses go from the water source to the water inlet valve. These are in the rear of the machine. Pull the machine from the wall and check that these hoses are fine. The hoses should be kink-free and damage-free. If they are, next check the rubber washer inside. Disconnect the hoses and inspect. If the hose or washer is damaged, replace them.

    If it's not the cold or hot fill hoses, check the drain hose next. This is connected to the drain pump, toward the front bottom of the machine. Remove the front panel and inspect the hose for a good connection and for cracks or perforation.

    There are other internal hoses to inspect, such as the tub-to-drain hose. If any hose is damaged, do not try to repair and reuse it. Replacement is the recommended solution.


    Drain Pump

    A broken drain pump is another common cause of leaks. All water travels through this part, so if there's a hole or crack in it, it's going to allow water to leak. If there isn't visible problem with the pump, but it still leaks, it's likely the bearings. When a drain pump leaks, there is no repair solution. The only option is to replace it with another.


    Water Seals

    Washing machines rely on several seals. There is the tub seal, tub spin seal, and door seal. Each plays a part in keeping water from leaking anywhere. The seals are rubber and susceptible to rips, tears, and holes.

    When a seal is damaged, the best route to take is replacement. Replacing a seal will require disassembly of the machine. Replacing the door seal is fairly easy, while the tub seal is more difficult.


Front Load Washer Overflows

  • Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting

    Is there enough water pressure from the house water supply to the washer?

    The washer needs at least 20 PSI to shut off automatically when filled. If the water pressure is too low, the washer will continue to accept water, causing an overflow.


    Water Inlet Valve

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    If you shut the power to the washer off, but it still fills with water, the water inlet valve is defective and must be replaced.


    Pressure Switch and Air Tube

    The pressure switch is another part that helps the washer know there is enough water in the tub. If it's defective, water will continue filling. There is an air tube that connects to the switch. As water fills the tub, the air pressure in the tube increases as well. When the correct pressure is achieved, water should shut off.

    Check the air tube for damage, and then check the pressure switch.

Front Load Washer Stops Mid-Cycle

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the wash load unbalanced?

    An unbalanced load can cause the machine to stop. If this is the case, turn the washer to OFF, open the washer and redistribute the load, then restart the cycle.

    Has the circuit breaker tripped?

    Check the circuit breaker and reset it if it's tripped.


    Water Inlet Valve

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    If your washer stops before the rinse phase, it's possible the water inlet valve has failed and is not supplying the washer with cold water. In this case, the load will sit indefinitely, waiting for water to fill.


    Drain Pump

    If your washer stops in between the wash and rinse phases, and it's still full of soapy water, it's possible the drain pump is faulty. The washer needs to drain the dirty water before fililng with clean water for the rinse, and if the drain pump isn't working, the machine won't be able to move on to the next phase.


    Timer Knob

    If your front load washer has a timer knob, check that next. Remove the knob by pulling it out or pushing in and then rotating it counter-clockwise. Check the knob for defects like cracks or excessive wear, especially where there timer shaft is inserted. If the knob isn't in working condition, it won't advance the timer, and the machine will be stuck mid-cycle.


Front Load Washer Vibrates Excessively

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the washer level?

    A common reason a washer vibrates is the machine is not level. Level the washer and try again. Note that the higher the machine is, the more it'll vibrate.

    Is the load balanced?

    If the load is unbalanced, the machine may vibrate more than usual. To fix, simply stop the machine and redistribute the load.

    Is the shipping bolt still in the machine?

    New washing machines are delivered with a shipping rod installed to keep the tub from moving too much during shipping. The rod keeps the unit stable to prevent damage while the machine is being transported. If the rod isn't removed during the installation, there will be a lot of noise and vibration during operation. Make sure to remove it before using the washing machine.


    Shock Absorbers

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Shock absorbers installed in your machine to minimize tub movement during the spin cycle. They're attached to the base and the outer tub. Faulty or worn out shock absorbers are unable to do their job, so things like unbalanced loads can make the washer vibrate or even move.

    To access them, you'll need to remove the front and/or rear panels. A damaged shock absorber should be replaced as soon as possible, as that one faulty part can lead to serious damage to other parts of the machine.


    Suspension Springs

    Washing machines attach the tub to the cabinet with suspension springs. This spring stabilizes the tub assembly and absorb vibrations produced during the spin cycle. If the suspension spring is damaged, the vibration won't be dampened effectively, and that'll cause the entire machine to vibrate excessively.

    Use extra caution when inspecting this part, as springs are under tension and you must be careful about it snapping when you disconnect it from the tub or cabinet. If one is bad, it's recommended to replace all of them at the same time.


Front Load Washer Won't Drain

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Have you checked the drain hose?

    The drain hose is located behind the machine and is how the water travels out of the washer.

    Make sure the drain hose isn't twisted or kinked. If it's not, check that it's not clogged. There could be a foreign object blocking the flow of water.


    Drain Pump and Hose

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Check the drain pump and hose for blockages. Remove the front panel and locate the drain pump. It's usually found in the lower front of the machine. Clear out any foreign objects that could be blocking the water from flowing out. Sometimes, a sock or other small article of clothing can find its way there and prevent draining.

    Disconnect the hoses from the pump, and check them for any objects that might be trapped. If any, clear them out, and then reattach the hoses to the pump.


    Pump Belt

    If the drain pump is fine, it's possible a damaged belt is to blame. If the belt is broken or worn out, draining won't occur. If the belt shows signs of excessive wear, replace it.


    Coin Trap

    Some models have a coin trap, for catching coins and other similarly sized objects from reaching the drain pump. The coin trap is typically located through a convenient access panel. If your machine is equipped with one, check it and clear out any objects you find there.


Front Load Washer Won't Spin

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the door closed tightly?

    Make sure you've closed the loading door all the way.

    Is the dispenser door closed?

    Make sure the door is closed or inserted completely.

    Is the load too small?

    If the load is too small, the machine may not spin. Add additional clothes to balance out the load and try again.


    Door Lock

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Front load washers have a door lock to keep the door closed during the spin cycle. If the door is closed, but the machine won't spin, it could be a probelm with the door lock. Within the lock is a switch that signals the washer to proceed with the spin cycle. If the door is shut but the machine won't move on to the spin, it's possibly a problem with the locking mechanism or switch.

    To test, use a multimeter on the switch to check for continuity. If defective, you'll need to replace the part.


    Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly

    The door lock might be working fine, but the motor or switch might be faulty. Test any switches for continuity, and if one shows an open circuit, replace it.


    Drive Belt

    A broken or loose drive belt can cause your washer to not spin. Check the belt, as it could be worn out. When it's not tight against the pulleys, the washer won't operate properly.


Top Load Washer Leaks Water

  • Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting

    Check that the fill hoses are properly installed on the faucets and to the washer's mixing valve.

    Check that the fill hoses for damage and leaks

    Fill hoses should be replaced every five years.

    Check the drain hose for damage and leaks

    Check the drain hose to make sure it is not clogged with debris or damaged.

    Check the drain hose for clogs

    Check the drain hose to make sure it is not clogged with debris.

    Check that the drain receptacle is not clogged

    Verify that the drain plumbing is working and free of clogs or debris.

    Is the washer oversudsing or overloaded?

    Too much detergent or overloading can cause the washer to overflow and leak. Use recommended detergent amounts and proper load sizes.


    Water Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.

Top Load Washer Not Agitating

  • Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting

    Make sure the lid is closed

    You can also inspect the lid switch to make sure it is operating properly.

    Is the machine plugged in?

    Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Check if a circuit breaker has tripped or a fuse has blown?

    If a circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it. Call an electrician if you need assistance.

    Verify that the controls are properly set

    Set the controls and press the start switch

    The drive belt may be broken


    Water Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.

Top Load Washer Overflows

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is there enough water pressure from the house water supply to the washer?

    The washer needs at least 20 PSI to shut off automatically when filled. If the water pressure is too low, the washer will continue to accept water, causing an overflow.


    Water Inlet Valve

    Important: Unplug the washer from power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The water inlet valve is defective and must be replaced if the power is off but the water continues to flow.


    Pressure Switch and Air Tube

    The pressure switch is another part that helps the washer know there is enough water in the tub. If it's defective, water will continue filling. There is an air tube that connects to the switch. As water fills the tub, the air pressure in the tube increases as well. When the correct pressure is achieved, water should shut off.

    Check the air tube for damage, and then check the pressure switch.


Top Load Washer Stops Mid-Cycle

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the wash load unbalanced?

    An unbalanced load can cause the machine to stop. If this is the case, turn the washer to OFF, open the washer and redistribute the load, then restart the cycle.

    Has the circuit breaker tripped?

    Check the circuit breaker and reset it if it's tripped.


    Water Inlet Valve

    Important: Unplug the washer from power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The water inlet valve allows water to flow into the machine before and during the cycle. If the washer is stuck mid-cycle, it's possible this part is at fault and isn't supplying water as expected.


    Drain Pump

    If your washer stops in between the wash and rinse phases, and it's still full of soapy water, it's possible the drain pump is faulty. The washer needs to drain the dirty water before fililng with clean water for the rinse, and if the drain pump isn't working, the machine won't be able to move on to the next phase.


    Timer Knob

    If your front load washer has a timer knob, check that next. Remove the knob by pulling it out or pushing in and then rotating it counter-clockwise. Check the knob for defects like cracks or excessive wear, especially where there timer shaft is inserted. If the knob isn't in working condition, it won't advance the timer, and the machine will be stuck mid-cycle.


Top Load Washer Vibrates Excessively

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Has all shipping material been removed during installation?

    Packaging material may be causing vibration during the wash cycle. Make sure you've removed all foreign objects, especially things left over from the move or delivery.

    Is the load balanced?

    An unbalanced load can sometimes cause excessive vibration. To fix this, shut off the machine and evenly redistribute the load. Then restart the cycle.

    Is the machine level?

    Adjust the leveling feet and ensure the washer is even and stable on the floor.


    Shock Absorber

    Important: Unplug the washer from power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Shock absorbers installed in your machine to minimize tub movement during the spin cycle. They're attached to the base and the outer tub. Faulty or worn out shock absorbers are unable to do their job, so things like unbalanced loads can make the washer vibrate or even move.

    To access them, you'll need to remove the front and/or rear panels. A damaged shock absorber should be replaced as soon as possible, as that one faulty part can lead to serious damage to other parts of the machine.


    Suspension Springs

    Washing machines attach the tub to the cabinet with suspension springs. This spring stabilizes the tub assembly and absorb vibrations produced during the spin cycle. If the suspension spring is damaged, the vibration won't be dampened effectively, and that'll cause the entire machine to vibrate excessively.

    Use extra caution when inspecting this part, as springs are under tension and you must be careful about it snapping when you disconnect it from the tub or cabinet. If one is bad, it's recommended to replace all of them at the same time.


Top Load Washer Won't Drain

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Have you checked the drain hose?

    Behind the washer is the drain hose, where water flows out of the machine. Make sure this hose isn't kinked or clogged.


    Drain Pump and Drain Hose

    Important: Unplug the washer from power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Check the drain pump and hose for kinks and blockages. You can find these parts in the lower front, and to access them, you must remove the cabinet front panel. Clear out any foreign objects that are blocking the water flow.

    Also, disconnect the hoses from the pump and inspect them. If there are any objects stuck in there, clear them out. Then reattach the hose to the pump.


    Pump Belt

    If the drain pump is fine, it's possible a damaged belt is to blame. If the belt is broken or worn out, draining won't occur. If the belt shows signs of excessive wear, replace it.


    Coin Trap

    Some models have a coin trap, for catching coins and other similarly sized objects from reaching the drain pump. The coin trap is typically located through a convenient access panel. If your machine is equipped with one, check it and clear out any objects you find there.


Top Load Washer Won't Spin

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Make sure the lid is closed

    Washers will not spin if the lid is open or ajar. A lid switch prevents the washer from spinning if the lid is open.

    Is the lid switch operating properly?

    Inspect the lid switch to make sure it is operating properly. You can check the switch with an ohmmeter to verify proper operation. The lid switch should have electrical continuity when the lid is closed. Always unplug the machine before making any repairs.

    The drive belt may be broken or loose

    Check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or damaged, or isn't tight, the washer won't spin.

    The motor coupler may be broken

    On washers with direct drive motors (no belt), check the motor coupler which links the direct drive motor to the transmission. If the coupler is broken or damaged, the washer won't spin.

    The motor may be broken.

    Inspect the motor for proper operation. If the motor will not run during the spin cycle, then it may need replacement.

    The tub seal and bearing may be worn or damaged.

    Usually the bearing will make noises and may leak water if it is failing. This is a major repair and involves the disassembly of the majority of the washer to replace the bearing and seal.

    The transmission may be worn or damaged.

    This is a major repair and involves the disassembly of the majority of the washer to replace the transmission.


    Lid Switch

    The lid switch senses when the lid is closed, and allows the washer to agitate or spin.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing any test.

    Remove the washer cabinet or top panel to allow access to the lid switch. Disconnect the wires to the lid switch, making sure to note where to reconnect them. Using a ohmmeter, verify that there is continuity across the lid switch when the lid is closed, and that the switch opens when the lid is open. If the switch does not perform this test properly, replace it.


    Drive Belt

    The drive belt connects the motor to the transmission.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing any test.

    Remove the washer front or side panel to allow access to the motor and belt. Inspect the belt for wear and proper tension to turn the transmission pulley. If the belt is damaged or worn, replace it.

Washer is Making Noises

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the washer level?

    If the washer is not level, there may be excessive vibration, or the drum may make contact with the cabinet, producing a loud, clanging sound. Level the washing machine by adjusting the feet.

    Are there foreign objects in the washer, such as coins or toys?

    Be careful to empty all pockets before loading clothes, and make sure no hard objects are included in the load.

    Is the washer's load unbalanced?

    Open the lid and redistribute the load.

    Is the washer making a knocking sound?

    A newly installed washer may make a knocking sound if it has been in storage, and the belt may have settled. Run the washer for 4-5 cycles to loosen the belt. If the belt is still noisy, replace it.

    Is the washer making a grinding sound?

    The tub bearing may be worn or failing.


    Tub Bearing and Seal

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The tub bearing is a part on both front load and top load washers. This bearing allows the wash basket to move freely during the agitation and spin cycles.

    On a front load washer, there are usually two bearings, both located in the rear of the outer tub. The bearings are sealed to keep water from entering, but over time and repeated use, the seal can wear down and water, soap, and dirt can seep in. When that happens, the bearings will eventually fail.

    When the tub bearing is the problem, your machine will make a loud rumbling noise during the spin cycle. If you hear that noise, you can inspect the machine by checking the tub for excessive play. If you're able to move the tub up and down, and side to side, that can indicate a tub bearing issue.

    Further inspection and repair requires disassembly of the machine. You'll need to remove the outer tub and wash basket in order to diagnose. If replacing the tub bearing, the tub seal should be replaced as well.


    Drain Pump and Motor

    The drain pump pushes water out of the machine for draining. Under normal circumstances, the pump should run sliently. If it's not, it's possible a foreign object such as a wire or small toy is stuck inside. After removing the power, carefully remove the front panel to access the pump. Inspect it for foreign objects and check the impeller for damage. If necessary, replace the pump.

    Some machines have the pump and motor in a single unit. On these, the entire assembly will need to be replaced.


    Shock Absorbers

    Shock absorbers are attached to the outer tub and machine base, and come into play during spinning. In the spin cycle, these parts dampen the tub movement, preventing it from bottoming out and crashing into the cabinet. If the shock absorbers are worn or damaged, they won't do their job, and as the tub hits the cabinet, you'll hear a loud banging during the spin.

    Check the shock absorbers for damage by looking for leaking, broken attachments, and weakness. Replace both, if you determine that one or both are faulty.


Washer Leaks Water

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Check that the fill hoses are properly installed on the faucets and to the washer's mixing valve.

    Check that the fill hoses for damage and leaks

    Fill hoses should be replaced every five years.

    Check the drain hose for damage and leaks

    Check the drain hose to make sure it is not clogged with debris or damaged.

    Check the drain hose for clogs

    Check the drain hose to make sure it is not clogged with debris.

    Check that the drain receptacle is not clogged

    Verify that the drain plumbing is working and free of clogs or debris.

    Are you using too much detergent?

    Using too much detergent can cause over-sudsing, which can cause splashing and overflow, leaving water and soap on the floor and looking like a leak. Be sure to use the proper amount of soap, according to the detergent packaging.

    Is the machine overloaded?

    Overloading the machine can also cause splashing and overflow, leaving wet floor that looks like a leak. Make sure you don't put too much clothes in the machine.


    Hoses

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The hoses are the most common points of failure for a leaking machine. Washing machines employ multiple hoses, though the likely problems would come from the fill hoses or the drain hose.

    The fill hoses go from the water source to the water inlet valve. These are in the rear of the machine. Pull the machine from the wall and check that these hoses are fine. The hoses should be kink-free and damage-free. If they are, next check the rubber washer inside. Disconnect the hoses and inspect. If the hose or washer is damaged, replace them.

    If it's not the cold or hot fill hoses, check the drain hose next. This is connected to the drain pump, toward the front bottom of the machine. Remove the front panel and inspect the hose for a good connection and for cracks or perforation.

    There are other internal hoses to inspect, such as the tub-to-drain hose. If any hose is damaged, do not try to repair and reuse it. Replacement is the recommended solution.


    Drain Pump

    A broken drain pump is another common cause of leaks. All water travels through this part, so if there's a hole or crack in it, it's going to allow water to leak. If there isn't visible problem with the pump, but it still leaks, it's likely the bearings. When a drain pump leaks, there is no repair solution. The only option is to replace it with another.


    Water Seals

    Washing machines rely on several seals. There is the tub seal, tub spin seal, and door seal. Each plays a part in keeping water from leaking anywhere. The seals are rubber and susceptible to rips, tears, and holes.

    When a seal is damaged, the best route to take is replacement. Replacing a seal will require disassembly of the machine. Replacing the door seal is fairly easy, while the tub seal is more difficult.


Washer Overflows

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is there enough water pressure from the house water supply to the washer?

    The washer needs at least 20 PSI to shut off automatically when filled. If the water pressure is too low, the washer will continue to accept water, causing an overflow.


    Water Inlet Valve

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    If you shut the power to the washer off, but it still fills with water, the water inlet valve is defective and must be replaced.


    Pressure Switch and Air Tube

    The pressure switch is another part that helps the washer know there is enough water in the tub. If it's defective, water will continue filling. There is an air tube that connects to the switch. As water fills the tub, the air pressure in the tube increases as well. When the correct pressure is achieved, water should shut off.

    Check the air tube for damage, and then check the pressure switch.

Washer Stops Mid-Cycle

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the wash load unbalanced?

    An unbalanced load can cause the machine to stop. If this is the case, turn the washer to OFF, open the washer and redistribute the load, then restart the cycle.

    Has the circuit breaker tripped?

    Check the circuit breaker and reset it if it's tripped.


    Water Inlet Valve

    Important: Unplug the washer from power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The water inlet valve allows water to flow into the machine before and during the cycle. If the washer is stuck mid-cycle, it's possible this part is at fault and isn't supplying water as expected.


    Drain Pump

    If your washer stops in between the wash and rinse phases, and it's still full of soapy water, it's possible the drain pump is faulty. The washer needs to drain the dirty water before fililng with clean water for the rinse, and if the drain pump isn't working, the machine won't be able to move on to the next phase.


    Timer Knob

    If your front load washer has a timer knob, check that next. Remove the knob by pulling it out or pushing in and then rotating it counter-clockwise. Check the knob for defects like cracks or excessive wear, especially where there timer shaft is inserted. If the knob isn't in working condition, it won't advance the timer, and the machine will be stuck mid-cycle.


Washer Vibrates Excessively

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the washer level?

    A common reason a washer vibrates is the machine is not level. Level the washer and try again. Note that the higher the machine is, the more it'll vibrate.

    Is the load balanced?

    If the load is unbalanced, the machine may vibrate more than usual. To fix, simply stop the machine and redistribute the load.

    Has all shipping material been removed during installation? Is the shipping bolt still in the machine

    New washing machines are delivered with a shipping rod installed to keep the tub from moving too much during shipping. The rod keeps the unit stable to prevent damage while the machine is being transported. If the rod isn't removed during the installation, there will be a lot of noise and vibration during operation. Make sure to remove it before using the washing machine.


    Shock Absorbers

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Shock absorbers installed in your machine to minimize tub movement during the spin cycle. They're attached to the base and the outer tub. Faulty or worn out shock absorbers are unable to do their job, so things like unbalanced loads can make the washer vibrate or even move.

    To access them, you'll need to remove the front and/or rear panels. A damaged shock absorber should be replaced as soon as possible, as that one faulty part can lead to serious damage to other parts of the machine.


    Suspension Springs

    Washing machines attach the tub to the cabinet with suspension springs. This spring stabilizes the tub assembly and absorb vibrations produced during the spin cycle. If the suspension spring is damaged, the vibration won't be dampened effectively, and that'll cause the entire machine to vibrate excessively.

    Use extra caution when inspecting this part, as springs are under tension and you must be careful about it snapping when you disconnect it from the tub or cabinet. If one is bad, it's recommended to replace all of them at the same time.


Washer Won't Agitate (Top Load)

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Make sure the lid is closed

    You can also inspect the lid switch to make sure it is operating properly.


    Lid Switch

    Top loaders have a lid switch that prevents the washer from operating with the lid up. If the lid is down, and the agitator isn't working and the motor has no power, the lid switch might be faulty.

    To check this, first unplug the washer. Then test the switch for continuity with a multimeter. The switch should have continuity. If not, replace the part.


    Agitator

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The agitator moves the clothes through the water and soap by rotating forward and backward. Some agitators are one-piece, and some are two-piece agitators, with a lower and uppper section.

    If the agitator isn't moving back and forth during the wash, it's possible the spline has been damaged. You'll have to remove the agitator from the machine to inspect. If your machine has a fabric softener dispenser over the agitator, remove that first. Then, you'll see either a small screw or an o-ring holding the agitator in place. After removing the retainer, you can lift the agitator off the shaft.


    Motor Coupling

    The motor coupling connects the transmission to the motor. A failed motor coupling commonly results in a washer that fills and drains normally, but doesn't spin or agitate. Over time, the coupling gets worn down and may even break, and replacing it is necessary.


    Drive Belt

    Certain top loaders have a drive to belt transfers power from the motor to the agitator. Belts get worn down and stop working. When it needs replacement, it'll often emit a burning smell and make a squealing sound. to replace the drive belt, the panels must be removed, and the belt is found under the tub.


    Drive Motor

    Some machines have a drive motor that rotates in two directions, one for spinning and one for agitating. It's possible for a motor to be fine rotating in one direction, but not the other. To test the motor requires a live voltage test, and this is recommended for professional service technicians only.


Washer Won't Drain

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Have you checked the drain hose?

    The drain hose is located behind the machine and is how the water travels out of the washer.

    Make sure the drain hose isn't twisted or kinked. If it's not, check that it's not clogged. There could be a foreign object blocking the flow of water.


    Drain Pump and Hose

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Check the drain pump and hose for blockages. Remove the front panel and locate the drain pump. It's usually found in the lower front of the machine. Clear out any foreign objects that could be blocking the water from flowing out. Sometimes, a sock or other small article of clothing can find its way there and prevent draining.

    Disconnect the hoses from the pump, and check them for any objects that might be trapped. If any, clear them out, and then reattach the hoses to the pump.


    Pump Belt

    If the drain pump is fine, it's possible a damaged belt is to blame. If the belt is broken or worn out, draining won't occur. If the belt shows signs of excessive wear, replace it.


    Coin Trap

    Some models have a coin trap, for catching coins and other similarly sized objects from reaching the drain pump. The coin trap is typically located through a convenient access panel. If your machine is equipped with one, check it and clear out any objects you find there.


Washer Won't Spin

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the door closed tightly or the lid down completely?

    Make sure you've closed the loading door all the way or the lid is completely closed.

    Is the dispenser door closed?

    Make sure the door is closed or inserted completely.

    Is the load too small?

    If the load is too small, the machine may not spin. Add additional clothes to balance out the load and try again.


    Lid Switch (Top Loaders)

    The lid switch senses when the lid is closed, and allows the washer to agitate or spin.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing any test.

    Remove the washer cabinet or top panel to allow access to the lid switch. Disconnect the wires to the lid switch, making sure to note where to reconnect them. Using a ohmmeter, verify that there is continuity across the lid switch when the lid is closed, and that the switch opens when the lid is open. If the switch does not perform this test properly, replace it.


    Door Lock (Front Loaders)

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Front load washers have a door lock to keep the door closed during the spin cycle. If the door is closed, but the machine won't spin, it could be a probelm with the door lock. Within the lock is a switch that signals the washer to proceed with the spin cycle. If the door is shut but the machine won't move on to the spin, it's possibly a problem with the locking mechanism or switch.

    To test, use a multimeter on the switch to check for continuity. If defective, you'll need to replace the part.


    Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly (Front Loaders)

    The door lock might be working fine, but the motor or switch might be faulty. Test any switches for continuity, and if one shows an open circuit, replace it.


    Drive Belt

    A broken or loose drive belt can cause your washer to not spin. Check the belt, as it could be worn out. When it's not tight against the pulleys, the washer won't operate properly.


Dryer is Too Hot

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the dryer vent clogged?

    Lint buildup and other obsctructions could keep the dryer from venting properly. Heat can buildup, causing the top of the dryer to get very hot. Clear the vents of any and all debris.

    Did you set the correct setting for your load?

    Make sure you're using the correct heat setting for your fabrics of the load you're drying.

    Is there anything stacked in front of the dryer?

    Many dryers have an air intake at the front of the machine. Make sure not to block his area, or the dryer won't be able to draw in fresh air to operate properly.

    Is the dryer level?

    If the dryer is not level, clothes can collect toward one part of the dryer, making it hard for the moisture sensors to measure your clothes' dryness. Make sure your dryer is level for best results.


    Exhaust Vent

    The ventilation system of your dryer must be clean and clear for the dryer to work properly. If airflow is restricted, hot air will build up inside your dryer, causing excessive heat.

    The excessive heat will often trip the high limit thermostat, which is a safety device that prevents your dryer from getting too hot. This will lead to longer drying times. Make sure to inspect and clean the vents regularly.


    Heating Element

    The heating element is a wire coil in a metal chamber, and is what generates the heat for the dryer. If the heating element is faulty, there won't be any heat.

    To access the part, you'll need to remove the rear panel. Use your multimeter to test for continuity. If it's no good, replace it.


    High Limit Thermostat

    Important: Remove the dryer's power source before beginning any tests or repairs. Unplug your dryer.

    For safety, the high limit thermostat is tripped when the dryer gets too hot. If the dryer doesn't shut off despite excessive heat, there might be problem with your high limit thermostat. This part isn't meant to cycle on and off like the cycling thermostat, so over time and repeated activations could wear it down. And when it's no longer working as expected, it can allow your dryer's temperature to rise to dangerous levels.

    After verifying there's no issue with the ventilation, you'll want to test this part. You'll need to remove the top and front panels to access this part. Use a multimeter to test for continuity. If you find this to be the cause, simply replace the part.


    Cycling Thermostat

    The cycling thermostat works by turning the dryer's heating element or gas burner on and off, depending on the temperature. This part keeps the dryer running at the correct temperature. If defective, the dryer may be allowed to get too hot, which is unsafe and can damage your clothes.

    If it's not the vents or high limit thermostat, you can test this part next. Like the high limit thermostat, you can access it by remove the front and side panel of the machine. Then use a multimeter to test.


    Heating Element

    If the heating element becomes faulty, it could produce heat continuously, which leads to excessive heating. If you've tested the cycling and high limit thermostat and those are fine, you'll want to inspect this part.

    The heating element comes in many forms, depending on the manufacturer. Generally, they are made with a wire coil. The way this works is, the coil receives an electrical current, but resists it. The resistance causes the coil to heat, and this heat is used to dry your clothes.

    To inspect this part, you'll have to disassemble the dryer so you can access it. Remember to disconnect your dryer from power before doing anything else.

    First, check that no coils are touching. Then, you can use your multimeter to test for resistance. With the multimeter set to Rx1 Resistance, touch each end of the element with both probes. If the meter reads infinite resistance, the part's no longer working properly and needs replacement.


Dryer Won't Turn

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Is the dryer overloaded?

    Loading the dryer with too heavy a load can keep the dryer from tumbling. The excess weight can make the dryer belt slip. Try removing some clothes and trying again.


    Dryer Belt

    Important: Unplug the dryer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    All dryers have a belt that rotates the drum. The dryer belt wraps around the drum, tension pulley, and motor. Over time, the belt can become worn down or break. When that happens, the motor is unable to send power to the drum, so even if the dryer is producing heat and the motor is turning, nothing is rotating the drum.

    Inspect the belt for wear and damage. It should be soft and flexible, with good grip. If it's hard and slippery, it's too worn down and isn't maintaining the necessary friction to turn the drum. If it's worn or broken, replacing the belt should solve the problem.


    Idler Pulley

    The dryer belt is kept tight by wrapping it over the idler pulley. This pulley maintains the tension needed for the belt to grip the drum and turn it. It rotates at a high speed and goes through normal wear. Over time, it can get too worn down, and either break or need adjusting. Usually, when this part breaks, it'll make a squealing sound during operation. But the other symptom of a bad idler pulley is the drum doesn't rotate or rotates very slowly.

    After inspecting the dryer belt, take time to check out the idler pulley. Remove the belt, and spin the pulley. It should spin freely on the shaft without any wobbling. If it doesn't, replace the part.


    Door Switch

    The door switch keeps the dryer from operating when the door is open. If the door is closed and the dryer still won't start, the switch might be faulty.

    The switch can be tested for continuity with a multimeter. If the switch is defective, you'll need to replace it.


Press & Media

The following are media related items featuring PWS Laundry in print, audio, and video mediums from various sources in the Laundromat industry and general media.