Residential Washers

Washer Won't Start

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form here or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we'll get back to you within 24 hours.

    Troubleshooting

    Is the power cord plugged in all the way?

    Make sure there is power going into the machine. Plug the cord in the outlet directly, without using an extension cord.

    Has the house circuit breaker tripped?

    Check the circuit breaker or house fuse. If the circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it.

    Is the loading door (front loaders) shut completely, or the lid (top loaders) closed?

    The washer won't start if the door isn't closed tightly or the lid isn't down.


    Lid Switch

    The lid switch is a safety device that prevents the washer from operating wtih the lid open. When the lid is closed, the switch is pushed in, which signals the washer that lid is down. If the lid is closed and the washer won't start, it's possible the lid switch is faulty.

    To test the lid switch, you'll need a multimeter and use it to check for continuity.


    Door Switch

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Just like top loaders, front load washers have a safety device in the form of a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and signals that the door is closed and locked. The machine won't run without this switch. If the door is closed, but the machine still won't start, the door switch might be faulty.

    To test the switch, you'll need a multimeter to test it for continuity. In order to access the switch, unplug the machine and then remove the front panel. The switch is located in the door frame or door lock assembly.


    Door Lock

    Similar to the door switch, the door lock signals to the washer that it's okay to start. The door lock must be engaged for the machine won't run. If the door switch tests okay, the next part to inspect is the door lock motor.

    After unplugging the machine and removing the front panel, test the door lock motor for continuity with a multimeter.


    Rotary Knobs

    On machines with a mechanical timer knob, the knob can get worn and no longer line up properly. You can try advancing the timer a little, and pulling it out again to try starting it.


    Overheating

    If the machine has been running several loads continuously, it can overheat. When it does, it'll automatically stop working to protect itself from harm. Allow the motor to cool down, and then try again.


    Control Board

    Newer machines are electronically controlled and have a control board. Diagnosing the control board is complicated, and repair/replacement is not recommended for a non-professional. It's also unlikely for a control board to go bad, so be sure to check all other possible causes before looking into this.


Washer Not Filling

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form here or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we'll get back to you within 24 hours.

    Troubleshooting

    Is the power cord plugged into a grounded outlet?

    Plug the cord into one.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Do not use one. Plug the machine directly into a grounded three-prong outlet.

    Has a circuit breaker tripped or a fuse blown?

    Check to see if either of those issues came up. If a circuit breaker has tripped, reset it. If it's a blown fuse, replace it. Call an electrician if you need assistance.

    Is the water faucet on?

    Check other faucets in the house to test. Turn on the water, both hot and cold. The washer will not work properly with only one incoming source of water. The water valve in the machine needs to have the pressue from both attached hoses to finish the cycle. If a cold water wash is selected, the washer is designed to add hot water to keep the water temperature optimal for cleaning. Connecting only to cold water can negatively affect the washer's effectiveness.

    Are any water hoses kinked?

    Straighten them out.

    Are the water inlet valve screens clogged?

    First, turn off the water. Then remove the hoses and clean the water inlet valve screens. Then put the hoses back and try again.

    Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle?

    Some wash cycles use a soaking period where the machine allows the clothing to soak. The pause can last up to three minutes, so simply allow the machine to do its job.

    Is the timer set to OFF?

    Sometimes the washer won't start if the dial is too close to the OFF position. Simply push the knob in and turn slightly. Then pull the knob out to start the cycle.

    Is the timer knob pushed in?

    Pull it out. Sometimes, when opening the lid, the lid can inadvertently push the knob in.

    Is the lid open?

    Some newer washers will not fill when the lid is open. Close the lid, then start the cycle.


    Inlet Hoses and Screens

    Washers are connected to your water supply by hoses. These hoses are about 5 feet long and will have a mesh screen inserted into the end of the hose that attaches to your faucet. The screen prevents sediment from entering the water inlet valve of your washing machine.

    • Check that the faucets are turned on and that the inlet hoses are not kinked.
    • Next, turn off the faucets and remove the fill hoses from the washer.
    • Inspect the inlet valve screens, and clean or replace.
    • Now, remove the hose from the faucet and clean or replace the screens.
    • If your washer still does take water, it's time to look at the water inlet at the back of your machine.

    Water Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    Assuming there is water pressure to the inlet valve, verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill with a multi-meter or voltage tester. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and must be replaced.

    If there is no power at the solenoid terminals, check the other components in the circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid with no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve.


Washer Won't Spin

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form here or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we'll get back to you within 24 hours.

    Troubleshooting

    Is the door closed tightly or the lid down completely?

    Make sure you've closed the loading door all the way or the lid is completely closed.

    Is the dispenser door closed?

    Make sure the door is closed or inserted completely.

    Is the load too small?

    If the load is too small, the machine may not spin. Add additional clothes to balance out the load and try again.


    Lid Switch (Top Loaders)

    The lid switch senses when the lid is closed, and allows the washer to agitate or spin.

    Important: This should only be performed by a qualified person. Remove power from the appliance before performing any test.

    Remove the washer cabinet or top panel to allow access to the lid switch. Disconnect the wires to the lid switch, making sure to note where to reconnect them. Using a ohmmeter, verify that there is continuity across the lid switch when the lid is closed, and that the switch opens when the lid is open. If the switch does not perform this test properly, replace it.


    Door Lock (Front Loaders)

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Front load washers have a door lock to keep the door closed during the spin cycle. If the door is closed, but the machine won't spin, it could be a probelm with the door lock. Within the lock is a switch that signals the washer to proceed with the spin cycle. If the door is shut but the machine won't move on to the spin, it's possibly a problem with the locking mechanism or switch.

    To test, use a multimeter on the switch to check for continuity. If defective, you'll need to replace the part.


    Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly (Front Loaders)

    The door lock might be working fine, but the motor or switch might be faulty. Test any switches for continuity, and if one shows an open circuit, replace it.


    Drive Belt

    A broken or loose drive belt can cause your washer to not spin. Check the belt, as it could be worn out. When it's not tight against the pulleys, the washer won't operate properly.


Washer Won't Drain

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form here or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we'll get back to you within 24 hours.

    Troubleshooting

    Have you checked the drain hose?

    The drain hose is located behind the machine and is how the water travels out of the washer.

    Make sure the drain hose isn't twisted or kinked. If it's not, check that it's not clogged. There could be a foreign object blocking the flow of water.


    Drain Pump and Hose

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Check the drain pump and hose for blockages. Remove the front panel and locate the drain pump. It's usually found in the lower front of the machine. Clear out any foreign objects that could be blocking the water from flowing out. Sometimes, a sock or other small article of clothing can find its way there and prevent draining.

    Disconnect the hoses from the pump, and check them for any objects that might be trapped. If any, clear them out, and then reattach the hoses to the pump.


    Pump Belt

    If the drain pump is fine, it's possible a damaged belt is to blame. If the belt is broken or worn out, draining won't occur. If the belt shows signs of excessive wear, replace it.


    Coin Trap

    Some models have a coin trap, for catching coins and other similarly sized objects from reaching the drain pump. The coin trap is typically located through a convenient access panel. If your machine is equipped with one, check it and clear out any objects you find there.


Washer Won't Agitate (Top Load)

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form here or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we'll get back to you within 24 hours.

    Troubleshooting

    Make sure the lid is closed

    You can also inspect the lid switch to make sure it is operating properly.


    Lid Switch

    Top loaders have a lid switch that prevents the washer from operating with the lid up. If the lid is down, and the agitator isn't working and the motor has no power, the lid switch might be faulty.

    To check this, first unplug the washer. Then test the switch for continuity with a multimeter. The switch should have continuity. If not, replace the part.


    Agitator

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The agitator moves the clothes through the water and soap by rotating forward and backward. Some agitators are one-piece, and some are two-piece agitators, with a lower and uppper section.

    If the agitator isn't moving back and forth during the wash, it's possible the spline has been damaged. You'll have to remove the agitator from the machine to inspect. If your machine has a fabric softener dispenser over the agitator, remove that first. Then, you'll see either a small screw or an o-ring holding the agitator in place. After removing the retainer, you can lift the agitator off the shaft.


    Motor Coupling

    The motor coupling connects the transmission to the motor. A failed motor coupling commonly results in a washer that fills and drains normally, but doesn't spin or agitate. Over time, the coupling gets worn down and may even break, and replacing it is necessary.


    Drive Belt

    Certain top loaders have a drive to belt transfers power from the motor to the agitator. Belts get worn down and stop working. When it needs replacement, it'll often emit a burning smell and make a squealing sound. to replace the drive belt, the panels must be removed, and the belt is found under the tub.


    Drive Motor

    Some machines have a drive motor that rotates in two directions, one for spinning and one for agitating. It's possible for a motor to be fine rotating in one direction, but not the other. To test the motor requires a live voltage test, and this is recommended for professional service technicians only.


Washer Vibrates Excessively

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form here or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we'll get back to you within 24 hours.

    Troubleshooting

    Is the washer level?

    A common reason a washer vibrates is the machine is not level. Level the washer and try again. Note that the higher the machine is, the more it'll vibrate.

    Is the load balanced?

    If the load is unbalanced, the machine may vibrate more than usual. To fix, simply stop the machine and redistribute the load.

    Has all shipping material been removed during installation? Is the shipping bolt still in the machine

    New washing machines are delivered with a shipping rod installed to keep the tub from moving too much during shipping. The rod keeps the unit stable to prevent damage while the machine is being transported. If the rod isn't removed during the installation, there will be a lot of noise and vibration during operation. Make sure to remove it before using the washing machine.


    Shock Absorbers

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    Shock absorbers installed in your machine to minimize tub movement during the spin cycle. They're attached to the base and the outer tub. Faulty or worn out shock absorbers are unable to do their job, so things like unbalanced loads can make the washer vibrate or even move.

    To access them, you'll need to remove the front and/or rear panels. A damaged shock absorber should be replaced as soon as possible, as that one faulty part can lead to serious damage to other parts of the machine.


    Suspension Springs

    Washing machines attach the tub to the cabinet with suspension springs. This spring stabilizes the tub assembly and absorb vibrations produced during the spin cycle. If the suspension spring is damaged, the vibration won't be dampened effectively, and that'll cause the entire machine to vibrate excessively.

    Use extra caution when inspecting this part, as springs are under tension and you must be careful about it snapping when you disconnect it from the tub or cabinet. If one is bad, it's recommended to replace all of them at the same time.


Washer Stops Mid-Cycle

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form here or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we'll get back to you within 24 hours.

    Troubleshooting

    Is the wash load unbalanced?

    An unbalanced load can cause the machine to stop. If this is the case, turn the washer to OFF, open the washer and redistribute the load, then restart the cycle.

    Has the circuit breaker tripped?

    Check the circuit breaker and reset it if it's tripped.


    Water Inlet Valve

    Important: Unplug the washer from power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The water inlet valve allows water to flow into the machine before and during the cycle. If the washer is stuck mid-cycle, it's possible this part is at fault and isn't supplying water as expected.


    Drain Pump

    If your washer stops in between the wash and rinse phases, and it's still full of soapy water, it's possible the drain pump is faulty. The washer needs to drain the dirty water before fililng with clean water for the rinse, and if the drain pump isn't working, the machine won't be able to move on to the next phase.


    Timer Knob

    If your front load washer has a timer knob, check that next. Remove the knob by pulling it out or pushing in and then rotating it counter-clockwise. Check the knob for defects like cracks or excessive wear, especially where there timer shaft is inserted. If the knob isn't in working condition, it won't advance the timer, and the machine will be stuck mid-cycle.


Washer Overflows

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form here or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we'll get back to you within 24 hours.

    Troubleshooting

    Is there enough water pressure from the house water supply to the washer?

    The washer needs at least 20 PSI to shut off automatically when filled. If the water pressure is too low, the washer will continue to accept water, causing an overflow.


    Water Inlet Valve

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    If you shut the power to the washer off, but it still fills with water, the water inlet valve is defective and must be replaced.


    Pressure Switch and Air Tube

    The pressure switch is another part that helps the washer know there is enough water in the tub. If it's defective, water will continue filling. There is an air tube that connects to the switch. As water fills the tub, the air pressure in the tube increases as well. When the correct pressure is achieved, water should shut off.

    Check the air tube for damage, and then check the pressure switch.

Washer Leaks Water

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Troubleshooting

    Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form here or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we'll get back to you within 24 hours.

    Check that the fill hoses are properly installed on the faucets and to the washer's mixing valve.

    Check that the fill hoses for damage and leaks

    Fill hoses should be replaced every five years.

    Check the drain hose for damage and leaks

    Check the drain hose to make sure it is not clogged with debris or damaged.

    Check the drain hose for clogs

    Check the drain hose to make sure it is not clogged with debris.

    Check that the drain receptacle is not clogged

    Verify that the drain plumbing is working and free of clogs or debris.

    Are you using too much detergent?

    Using too much detergent can cause over-sudsing, which can cause splashing and overflow, leaving water and soap on the floor and looking like a leak. Be sure to use the proper amount of soap, according to the detergent packaging.

    Is the machine overloaded?

    Overloading the machine can also cause splashing and overflow, leaving wet floor that looks like a leak. Make sure you don't put too much clothes in the machine.


    Hoses

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The hoses are the most common points of failure for a leaking machine. Washing machines employ multiple hoses, though the likely problems would come from the fill hoses or the drain hose.

    The fill hoses go from the water source to the water inlet valve. These are in the rear of the machine. Pull the machine from the wall and check that these hoses are fine. The hoses should be kink-free and damage-free. If they are, next check the rubber washer inside. Disconnect the hoses and inspect. If the hose or washer is damaged, replace them.

    If it's not the cold or hot fill hoses, check the drain hose next. This is connected to the drain pump, toward the front bottom of the machine. Remove the front panel and inspect the hose for a good connection and for cracks or perforation.

    There are other internal hoses to inspect, such as the tub-to-drain hose. If any hose is damaged, do not try to repair and reuse it. Replacement is the recommended solution.


    Drain Pump

    A broken drain pump is another common cause of leaks. All water travels through this part, so if there's a hole or crack in it, it's going to allow water to leak. If there isn't visible problem with the pump, but it still leaks, it's likely the bearings. When a drain pump leaks, there is no repair solution. The only option is to replace it with another.


    Water Seals

    Washing machines rely on several seals. There is the tub seal, tub spin seal, and door seal. Each plays a part in keeping water from leaking anywhere. The seals are rubber and susceptible to rips, tears, and holes.

    When a seal is damaged, the best route to take is replacement. Replacing a seal will require disassembly of the machine. Replacing the door seal is fairly easy, while the tub seal is more difficult.


Washer is Making Noises

  • Troubleshooting

    Video Tutorial


    Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form here or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we'll get back to you within 24 hours.

    Troubleshooting

    Is the washer level?

    If the washer is not level, there may be excessive vibration, or the drum may make contact with the cabinet, producing a loud, clanging sound. Level the washing machine by adjusting the feet.

    Are there foreign objects in the washer, such as coins or toys?

    Be careful to empty all pockets before loading clothes, and make sure no hard objects are included in the load.

    Is the washer's load unbalanced?

    Open the lid and redistribute the load.

    Is the washer making a knocking sound?

    A newly installed washer may make a knocking sound if it has been in storage, and the belt may have settled. Run the washer for 4-5 cycles to loosen the belt. If the belt is still noisy, replace it.

    Is the washer making a grinding sound?

    The tub bearing may be worn or failing.


    Tub Bearing and Seal

    Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.

    The tub bearing is a part on both front load and top load washers. This bearing allows the wash basket to move freely during the agitation and spin cycles.

    On a front load washer, there are usually two bearings, both located in the rear of the outer tub. The bearings are sealed to keep water from entering, but over time and repeated use, the seal can wear down and water, soap, and dirt can seep in. When that happens, the bearings will eventually fail.

    When the tub bearing is the problem, your machine will make a loud rumbling noise during the spin cycle. If you hear that noise, you can inspect the machine by checking the tub for excessive play. If you're able to move the tub up and down, and side to side, that can indicate a tub bearing issue.

    Further inspection and repair requires disassembly of the machine. You'll need to remove the outer tub and wash basket in order to diagnose. If replacing the tub bearing, the tub seal should be replaced as well.


    Drain Pump and Motor

    The drain pump pushes water out of the machine for draining. Under normal circumstances, the pump should run sliently. If it's not, it's possible a foreign object such as a wire or small toy is stuck inside. After removing the power, carefully remove the front panel to access the pump. Inspect it for foreign objects and check the impeller for damage. If necessary, replace the pump.

    Some machines have the pump and motor in a single unit. On these, the entire assembly will need to be replaced.


    Shock Absorbers

    Shock absorbers are attached to the outer tub and machine base, and come into play during spinning. In the spin cycle, these parts dampen the tub movement, preventing it from bottoming out and crashing into the cabinet. If the shock absorbers are worn or damaged, they won't do their job, and as the tub hits the cabinet, you'll hear a loud banging during the spin.

    Check the shock absorbers for damage by looking for leaking, broken attachments, and weakness. Replace both, if you determine that one or both are faulty.